Daniel – Yunnan travel adviser at China Roads
A few questions for Daniel – his story, advice and favourites
What is your connection with China? Your first trip to China?
In 2006, having just completed my final diploma in continuing education, I decided to get some fresh air. I left my suits and comics collection in the care of friends, saying ‘I’ll be back in a year’… That was the plan, until my path took me to China. I had no intention of going there, hardly helped by the images of overcrowded megacities that my Asian colleagues were feeding me. And yet, as soon as I arrived in Hanoi, I found myself in the gardens of the Mandarin University without a second thought. Was it because of the old stones and the mysterious characters they bore? Or perhaps the contemplative atmosphere of the place? In any case, on my way out I went straight to the Chinese consulate to get a visa for the Middle Kingdom.
I had no idea, as I crossed the bridge over the Red River that forms the border with the Chinese province of Yunnan, that I was entering my new life. My first evening on Chinese soil was one of the most memorable of my life: welcomed as a brother by complete strangers, I felt like I was entering another world.
From then on, I never stopped trying to understand this people, these peoples with their varied languages and customs, but all united by the same characters.
Where do you live now?
At an altitude of 2,000 metres at the foot of the Cangshan mountains and facing Lake Erhai, on the edge of the old town of Dali in Yunnan. It has changed a lot since I arrived, with tourism expanding its footprint. This is not without its advantages, for example, today you’ll find a selection of gastronomic delights to match the diversity of the people you meet there: the historic inhabitants of the old town, a long line of Bais traders and peasants accustomed to trading on the ancient trade routes, have now been joined by artists, cultural creators and families looking for a healthier, simpler life. This makes Dali a real cultural melting pot, a place for colourful encounters! The charm of the city remains for those who know how to get away from the busiest places, and the plain that surrounds it retains its indescribable gentle way of life, its fields and villages bathed in sunshine all year round.
What is your favorite place in China?
Without a doubt, Weishan! That’s good, it’s an hour from my home (laughs). Even from Dali where the pace is pleasantly slow, you can feel the difference when you arrive in Weishan. It’s also an old town, but tourism hasn’t really taken off there yet. There’s this nonchalance that you have to experience to understand, as soon as I arrive I always feel my step slow down, my rhythm adjust to that of the locals: whether it’s for a game of chess in the shaded square, a family stroll down the main street, or around a barbecue table at nightfall, here we still live to the rhythm of eternal China, surrounded by buildings several centuries old. It’s in Weishan that we find, I experience it every time with the travelers I accompany, the China we dreamed of as children.
When to leave?
Spring, from March to May, and autumn, from September to November, are, of course, the mildest seasons. But I personally love the light of winter, which is always mild during the day, as well as summer, whose showers keep us away from the extreme heat.
An experiment to do?
How can we not mention the hike in the Tiger Leaping Gorge north of Lijiang? The site is world-class and the multitude of tourists are wisely confined to the stairs that descend to the river’s edge, while the hiking trail, airy but easily accessible even for children, offers spectacular views between sky and earth, facing the 4,000 meters of mineral wall of the north face of the Jade Dragon.
A place in China you would gladly return to?
Tibet, where I haven’t been since 2007. I reached Lhasa after doing the Kora around Mount Kailash. The energetic vibration of this city filled with Tibetan pilgrims was so strong that I was forced to leave, in tears. I would love to return there today, more serene.
What travel destinations do you recommend in China?
At the risk of preaching to my own choir, I sincerely recommend Yunnan, and the neighboring provinces of Sichuan and Tibet. A real breath of fresh air for travelers, discovering peoples whose cultures are still deeply rooted.
A film to discover before traveling to China?
“The Bird People of China,” a modern fairy tale that pays such a fitting tribute to the wonderful people of the Yunnan mountains.
A restaurant or dish you love
A revolutionary dish! Red braised pork, a specialty of Hunan province and the great helmsman’s favorite.
And as summer approaches, Shandong Chinese cabbage salad, so simple that you can’t fail to make it, even at home: shredded cabbage, lots of garlic and soy sauce with a hint of sesame oil, to be consumed without moderation!
A souvenir to bring back from China?
Tea, of course. I suggest bringing black tea (called red here), which is very good for your health, especially for people over 40. And if you have a little room left in your luggage, I highly recommend a tea set: an openwork wooden tray with an overflow tray, a purple clay teapot from Jianshui and its matching small cups, guaranteed to make an impact!
Any last advice?
In the post-COVID world, many of us feel the need to get a breath of fresh air, to get closer to what matters, to meet others (while respecting social distancing, of course!).
Yunnan, largely spared by the epidemic, is the ideal place to disconnect, recharge your batteries and get closer to the land: the air is pure, the food is healthy, there are many opportunities for hiking, cycling and other outdoor activities, and the locals are simple and welcoming.
So don’t hesitate, our local teams are counting on the return of travelers to get back to their lives.
See you soon !