Anyue

Anyue (安岳) – The little-known jewel of Sichuan rock Buddhism

Situated in the east of Sichuan province, halfway between Chengdu and Chongqing, Anyue is an unassuming little town that nonetheless boasts one of the richest collections of rock carvings in the whole of China. While many travellers flock to visit the famous Dazu caves or the Great Buddha of Leshan, Anyue remains relatively untouched by mass tourism, offering visitors a more intimate setting in which to discover a thousand-year-old heritage.

An open-air stone museum

The Anyue region is nicknamed ‘the open-air cave museum’ (露天石刻博物馆) because of its more than 100,000 Buddhist statues carved directly into the rock at more than 400 different sites spread across the surrounding countryside. Most of these sculptures date back to the Tang (7ᵉ to 10ᵉ century) and Song (10ᵉ to 13ᵉ century) dynasties and bear witness to the Buddhist fervour that marked the region for several centuries.

Unlike the better-known Dunhuang or Dazu caves, Anyue’s sculptures were often carved in the open air, sometimes in niches carved into the side of hills or ravines, rather than in large underground caverns.

Major sites in Anyue

The Pilu caves (毗卢洞)

This is Anyue’s most famous and emblematic site. It features a huge statue of Pilu Buddha (毗卢佛), over 13 metres high and carved into a steep wall. Around this central statue, you can admire a multitude of smaller sculptures representing Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, arhats and other emblematic figures of Mahayana Buddhism.

The site is also remarkable for the fine detail of the faces and drapery, characteristic of the Late Tang style.

The Huayan site (华严洞)

Located not far from Pilu, Huayan is another major site with several pavilions, grottoes and sculpted niches illustrating different scenes from the life of Buddha, as well as Buddhist texts engraved on the walls. Surrounded by lush vegetation, the site offers a serene and mystical atmosphere, ideal for photography and meditation enthusiasts.

The Yuanjue pagoda (圆觉塔)

This brick pagoda dating from the Song dynasty stands on a hill overlooking the region. Several storeys high, it was once used as a spiritual and military landmark. Around the pagoda, there are also several small carved Buddhist niches, illustrating the importance of this place in local religious history.

Anyue’s artistic style

Anyue’s sculptures are characterised by a refined and expressive artistic style, which shows the influence of the Tang, with full, harmonious bodies, but also a transition to the more slender, refined style of the Song. Local Sichuan characteristics can also be seen, such as the use of floral and plant motifs inspired by the surrounding countryside.

Some experts consider Anyue’s works to be comparable to, and sometimes even superior to, those of Dazu in terms of the quality of their stonework and the variety of themes depicted (scenes of meditation, sermons, episodes from the Jataka, etc.).

Why visit Anyue?

A little-known and therefore less-frequented site, perfect for travellers looking to get off the beaten track.
An exceptional historical heritage, combining art, spirituality and natural scenery.
A more intimate experience, away from the hustle and bustle of Sichuan’s more popular tourist sites.
An authentic rural setting, ideal for discovering the Szechuan countryside and its small traditional villages.

Not to be missed in the region

Rape fields (in spring): In March-April, the Anyue countryside is covered in bright yellow flowers, creating a spectacular backdrop around the rock sites.
Local specialities: Sichuan is renowned for its spicy cuisine, and Anyue is no exception. There are many small restaurants where you can sample typical dishes such as mapo tofu or spicy fish.

Practical information

Location: Anyue, Sichuan province, China

Access :

From Chengdu: around 3h30 by car or long-distance bus.
From Chongqing: around 2h30 hours by car or bus.
Regular buses leave from the main bus stations in Chengdu and Chongqing.

Recommended visiting time :

1 or 2 days on site to visit several major sites at a relaxed pace.

Accommodation :

A few simple hotels in the town of Anyue. For greater comfort, some people prefer to stay in Ziyang or even make the round trip from Chengdu during the day.

Advice for visitors

Bring good walking shoes as some sites require you to climb stairs or walk on footpaths.
Bring water and snacks, as tourist facilities are limited at some remote sites.
A guided tour (in Chinese or with a translator) allows you to learn more about the symbolism and history of the sculptures.